What causes the initial ocean displacement?
Most tsunamis begin with underwater earthquakes occurring at tectonic plate boundaries. When these massive seafloor plates shift or snap suddenly, they act like a giant piston. This movement exerts tremendous force on the water above, lifting the entire water column from the seabed to the surface. Unlike typical waves caused by wind, which only affect the surface, a tsunami involves the movement of the entire depth of the ocean.
This displacement creates a series of deep waves that carry immense energy. In the open ocean, these waves can travel at speeds exceeding 500 miles per hour, which is comparable to the speed of a commercial jet. Because the ocean is so deep, the waves may only appear a few inches high on the surface. This makes them difficult to detect from ships or planes until they approach land.
Why do tsunami waves get bigger near the shore?
As the energy pulses reach shallow water near the coastline, the environment changes the behavior of the wave. The bottom of the wave begins to drag against the rising seafloor, creating friction that slows the wave down significantly. While the front of the wave slows, the water behind it continues to move quickly, causing the volume of water to pile up and gain height.
This process transforms the fast, low-profile deep waves into a massive wall of water. The kinetic energy from the speed is converted into potential energy as the wave grows taller. By the time the tsunami reaches the shore, it has become a powerful surge capable of traveling far inland. The height and impact of the wave depend on the local seafloor shape and the amount of energy released during the initial seafloor shift.
